On paper, St. JOHN is a collection of restaurants, bakeries and a winery. But if only the hallowed white walls of its London restaurants could talk. These are the dining rooms that have brought Anthony Bourdain (literally) to his knees, have launched thousands upon thousands of imitators, and have defied the odds by remaining largely unchanged for decades; only growing in popularity with each generation who delight in discovering it anew.
The creation of something extraordinary and revolutionary that can transcend decades, something that is unchanging, unflinching, unparalleled, can only have been created and sustained by people who truly know and deeply understand what they are doing.
Here, in the 30th year of St. JOHN, its founders Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver give 10 rules for starting—and running—a restaurant. “This is not a blueprint to success,” they warn. “There is no formula, but I hope that it is a guide to all that must be considered, noisily and enthusiastically, quietly and reflectively.”
Photography by Tex Bishop. Art direction by David McKendrick.
SO, A RESTAURANT?
“This is not a blueprint to success; there is no formula, but I hope that it is a guide to all that must be considered, noisily and enthusiastically, quietly and reflectively.”
Ask yourself what a true restaurant is. Know what it is not: it is not a chain or a repeat template. It is a part of its environment and its place, on the path to community.
A restaurant needs a sense of permanence and of rhythm. You are asking people to give their time, and much more. Know that much like a farm, it will continue beyond the now.
Strive to create an environment in which people can thrive, learn and find joy , contributing daily towards its history and its future.
Work for those that work for you.
Know that what you produce for the table is truly good, honest, of provenance and ultimately of you—there are no shortcuts.
Respect your suppliers, your producers, your people, your customers, your neighbors and everyone around you. You do not come first.
The more you employ consultants, the more you should worry about your competence—you are always the consultant’s dinner.
There is no college course in experience; get some and be honest with yourself as you gain it.
Learn how to account, in real time. You will be taking other people’s futures with you and this is a serious responsibility—be properly and realistically funded.
Remember that none of us are perfect and that patience is a virtue. A regular customer can be someone who visits once a week or once a year—both will become a part of your shared history over time.
P.S. If you don’t like lunch, we suggest that you don’t open a restaurant!
Manifesto is a series on WePresent which invites activists and creatives with something to say to write 10 rules to live by, in order to help spread their message. Photographs by Tex Bishop and Art direction by David McKendrick.
